'Long way to go'

Emerging from all that, the "Old Jazz Band", which attempts to revive the bar's 1930s air, has been a fixture at the hotel since 1980.

Former US presidents Bill Clinton and Ronald Reagan are among the dignitaries who have dropped in for an evening of jazz - Clinton, who plays the sax, even joined in.

The band, which has an average age of 82, plays what it calls "soft jazz" and with a Shanghainese flavor.

"Jazz has come to China bit by bit," said Li, who has been in the band for more than 30 years and was put forward by his fellow members to speak for them.

"After China's opening-up, the influx of Western jazz had a huge impact on the jazz scene here. By watching their performances, we were able to learn from them and improve our music.

"But of course, compared to the top jazz scenes in the world, we still have a long way to go."

And the million-dollar question: when does Li plan to close the lid on his saxophone case for the last time?

"Generally speaking, playing the sax has an age limit," he says, smiling.

But as long as he remains enthusiastic and people keep filling the bar to listen, he plans to carry on.

"Interacting with the audience is the greatest thing for me. Without anyone to listen, we'd have no reason to perform."