The night market. [Wang Zhuangfei / China Daily]

In all likelihood, such night food markets existed hundreds of years ago, too, packed with locals and merchants stopping by for replenishment of supplies. All kingdoms have long since been lost to the desert, but in Hotan many traditions such as bazaars and silk making are well and truly alive.

The majority of those who live in Hotan are Uygurs so the food in the night markets is full of authentic Uygur flavors. In Hotan the sun does not set until after 10 pm at the height of summer so the busiest time in the markets is after midnight, which stay open until 4 am.

The favorite food with locals is, undoubtedly, barbecued eggs, which are also a Hotan specialty. In the new night market, barbecued-egg sellers far outnumber those selling any other food. Perhaps surprisingly for visitors not used to such a warm climate, people are happy enough to sit around burning coals even on days when the temperature has climbed to 45 C, and on such days blazing heat can persist into the evening and the early morning.

Barbecue egg masters such as Turson Samat, 36, can cook eggs to the exacting demands of customers by adjusting how deep the eggs are buried in the burning coals, then pluck them out at just the right moment to deliver eggs from rare to well done to people sitting around intently watching the process.

Customers can choose from pigeon, chicken and goose eggs, which are neatly piled around the barbeque. Before burying the eggs, Turson removes the shell at the top and leaves a small opening so he can see what is going on inside. Customers can produce flavors to suit their own tastes by adding salt, pepper or honey through the small opening and eventually eat the contents with a small spoon.

In the barbecued egg business the premium deal is the three-in-one egg, Turson says. "Let me show you how it's done," he whispers as if this is all very top secret. First, he makes the small opening at the top of a goose egg then carefully removes the egg white. He later puts the yolks of a chicken egg and a pigeon egg into the goose egg and mixes the yolks.

He then places the goose egg on top of the coal. When the yolks are beginning to thicken he takes the mixture out and adds a little honey and a pinch of saffron. The egg is then put back in the coal and Turson keeps on stirring the mixture until the texture turns into something like creme brulee. The result is delicious.