Spiced crab meat rolls wrapped in vermicelli sheets. [Photo by Feng Yongbin/China Daily]

"Our use of chilies is complex, and strict. We may use dozens of chilies for one dish. Some are high in capsaicin. Some are for the aroma, while some are only for fortifying the color."

At Transit, there are popular classics such as dandan noodles, mapo tofu, and kung-pao chicken, and also fusion dishes adapted from Sichuan cuisine.

Steamed sea-bass rolls stuffed with Sichuan ham and bamboo exude the scent of Southeast Asian spices. Chef Zhao told us the special fragrance is from the litsea oil and lime juice. The rolls are delicately placed into a beautiful fish-like shape. Chinese prefer fish presented as a whole fish while Westerners are used to fish fillets - so this dish finds a happy middle ground.

Marinated chicken strips in grapefruit vinaigrette, avocado, and mayonnaise seems to make an unlikely combination, but it works surprisingly well. The tartness of grapefruit, sweetness of mayonnaise, and the creamy texture from avocado add up to a nice blend wrapped onto the salty chicken strips, ending with a mouthful of surprises.

Desserts at Transit help us to cool off the numbing spicy effects right away. The pitted lychee stuffed in iced passion-fruit yogurt is innovative, sweet-and-sour, and balances the heat and oil we had throughout the meal. It can also be worth trying the Transit sorbet, another good choice to balance the heat.

Prices may be higher (mouth-watering chicken 98 yuan; kung-pao chicken 128 yuan), compared to Sichuan restaurants tucked inside Beijing's hutong. But for classic Sichuan cuisine with high-quality ingredients, a twist in modern preparation and presentation and an elegant decor, Transit is a rare find in Beijing.

If you go

Transit Noon-2 pm, 5:30 pm-10 pm

Where: N436, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu

Contact: 010-6417-9090