Crispy Fish with Ginger-Scallion Sauce inKatie Chin's Everyday Chinese Cookbook.

"When I was developing this recipe a few months ago," Katie writes of her Tofu Bites with Three Sauces, "I started with four sauces, but then I heard my mother's voice in my head about the (unlucky) number four: 'Don't rent that #4 apartment!' I hope these crispy tofu nuggets-crunchy on the outside, but soft and creamy on the inside-bring you luck with their three delicious dipping sauces. The Sriracha Mayo delivers a creamy heat, while the Soy Balsamic is sweet-tart and salty, and the Hoisin Peanut is rich and nutty."

Writing about working with her mom, she describes Leeann as the toughest boss she ever had, with reprimands like "Your egg rolls are not wrapped firmly enough" and "You should make double the pleats on that shu mai."

In private or on TV, it made no difference.

"One time, on our cooking show, I said, 'If you don't have Asian hot sauce, you can use Mexican hot sauce instead. Right, mom?' Her deadpan response on camera was, 'No.' I recognize now that she just wanted me to be the best I could be."