In the heart of Lhasa, near Barkhor Street, the Summit Fine Art Cafe — affectionately known as Yangtse Coffee — has become a familiar presence where tradition meets modern urban life. As the morning sun warms the streets, local businesspeople and young professionals gather over freshly brewed Italian-style coffee.

At the center is Douglas Wolford, an American businessman who first came to Xizang autonomous region in 1997. During that visit, he noticed what he saw as a gap in the market.

"There were thousands of foreign tourists coming to the region, yet there wasn't a single authentic coffeehouse at that time," he said."I felt there was an opportunity."

In 2005, he opened what he described as Lhasa's first Western-style cafe. For many locals at the time, stepping inside felt different from visiting a traditional Tibetan teahouse, he said.

Over the past two decades, however, coffee has shifted from novelty to routine in Lhasa. According to the city's market supervision authority, Lhasa had 128 registered coffee businesses as of August 2024, up from 56 in 2023 — more than doubling within a year, China News Service reported.

Industry observers said the actual number may be higher, as some restaurants and teahouses also serve coffee without registering specifically as cafes.

Today, coffee shops can be found not only along Barkhor Street but also in shopping malls and near major landmarks. Rooftop cafes offer views of the Potala Palace, while riverside coffee carts serve customers strolling along the Lhasa River.

Yangtse Coffee itself has adapted with the times. The cafe serves a mix of traditional Tibetan dishes and global desserts. One signature drink — a churro latte infused with Tibetan cheese chura — reflects an effort to blend local ingredients with Italian coffee traditions.

"There are many cafes in Lhasa now, but the coffee here has a very pure taste," said Tenzin Nyima, a customer who has visited the cafe for more than a decade.

Other operators are also experimenting with local flavors. Tsomo, founder of the local chain Lhasa Nindo Coffee, said her brand has created drinks such as Lhasa latte, highland barley cold brew and butter-infused coffee. Founded in 2018, the chain now operates five outlets in the city, the report said.

"I think the popularity of coffee in Lhasa reflects the city's openness to outside beverages," she said. She added that Tibetan consumers have long been familiar with coffee in different forms, recalling that instant coffee from Southeast Asia was available in Barkhor Street shops years ago.

During the Spring Festival and Tibetan New Year holidays, several cafes introduced special seasonal drinks using yak butter and turnip, attracting young customers who now see meeting for coffee as part of their holiday routine.

Along Barkhor Street, Mecha Cafe combines traditional Tibetanstyle stone walls and murals with modern, camping-inspired decor, becoming a popular gathering spot for photos and social events. Meanwhile, a mobile coffee cart parks by the Lhasa River, serving drinks while introducing visitors to migratory birds wintering nearby.

Against this backdrop of growing competition and diversification, Wolford said consistency has been key to his business. From the beginning, he said, he adhered to Italian coffee-making standards.

He also credited improvements in infrastructure and the broader business environment for supporting long-term operations.

"Operating as a foreign investor here has been a positive experience," he said.

Lhakdron, the cafe's general manager for 12 years, said Wolford has fostered a supportive workplace. Employees are entitled to maternity leave, and flexible arrangements are available for staff with children.

For Wolford, Lhasa has become more than a place of business. Wearing a Tibetan dzi bead around his neck, he speaks warmly of local hospitality.

"When you visit a Tibetan home, they keep refilling your teacup after every sip," he said. "That generosity stays with you."

"Now I have a home in California and in Xizang," he added. "But my heart is here."

Zheng Jinran contributed to this story.

Contact the writers at palden_nyima@chinadaily.com.cn