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Ningxia, a region of fascinating physical, human and historic diversity

By Bruce Connolly | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2018-08-13 17:10
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Chengtian Temple (West Pagoda). Haibao Temple Yinchuan 1997.[Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

A history going back at least over 2,000 years, it was capital of the Western Xia Dynasty (1038-1644) and since 1958 capital of Ningxia. I was staying in the older area of Yinchuan. Being compact in size and having several remains of its former walls and gates still standing it felt an attractive city and great for walking around. A good place to start was the Regional Museum, surrounded by delightful gardens it helped provide an insight into the history and culture of Ningxia.

Near my hotel the North Pagoda rising above the Haibao Tasi Temple looked enticing. Climbing to its 13th floor provide me panoramic views across nearby rice fields toward the modern skyline of the city. Like in many historic city centers, a three-story Drum Tower (gulou)rose from an uplifted brick base and surrounded by four smaller towers. A short walk led to the city’s main square and its famed South Gate (nanmen lou)known as the local Tiananmen due to similarities with Beijing’s much larger structure. Serving its sizeable Hui, or Muslim population, Yinchuan has many often beautiful mosques. I visited the Nanguan Mosque, a spacious structure with two tall minarets, set within tranquil gardens enhanced by cooling fountains.

Around parts of the older areas such as Zhongshan Nanjie were crowded with food stalls. Skewers of lamb or local Yellow River carp fish were grilled over charcoal with red ground spices or curry powder sprinkled over them. The aroma enticing me to order up copious portions washed down with cold local beer. Yinchuan’s dining experiences were enhanced through many local products including wolfberry, sand onions (sha cong)and tasty mustard on shredded vegetables called “Lovers Tears” - which certainly brought tears to my eyes.

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