Critical situation

Many trekking companies that sent teams to Qomolangma are still emerging from the shock of the earthquake and disaster at base camp, including, in some cases, the death of staff and clients.

Several outfits that set up camps in the avalanche's path lost all their gear, and others had to abandon equipment at camps higher up the mountain that were cut off once the Khumbu icefall route was destroyed.

Ballinger said the decision to switch sides was a large investment that cost him two years of "theoretical profits", but believed the accidents meant it was inevitable more would follow him to Tibet.

"The system is entirely broken on the south side," Ballinger said.

Few in the climbing community believe that disasters on Qomolangma two seasons in a row will keep people away altogether. Indeed, for some, the danger may increase the allure.

Pedersen, a technology consultant who has been to the North Pole, flown a MiG fighter jet and spent $100,000 on a ticket to fly into space, has aborted three attempts on Qomolangma in the last four years when people on the mountain were killed.

But, he said, climbing the mountain is a chance to join an elite group.

"If I nearly died or if I had head trauma then my feelings may be different, but it is still my dream to climb Qomolangma."