[Photo provided to China Daily]

Our second main course was Leung's version of crispy pork belly.

Once again, a twice-cooked process delivered great contrast. The meat at the heart of each morsel is very tender and surprisingly lean. Leung packs the pork's sinful side in the crispy top, brittle after a flash broiling and salty thanks to a basting of rich soy sauce. The result is not guilt-free, but it's far from the excessive celebration of fat's deliciousness that is often served up elsewhere.

And why go to a fancy restaurant without some guilty pleasure?

Speaking of guilty pleasure: Don't forget dessert. The mango and pomelo served in sago cream is a light and refreshing finish that won't leave you too full.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

If you go

Man Ho

Marriott Hangzhou, 399 Juyuan Road, Jinggan district, Hangzhou. 571-8646-9999, Ext 6666.