I also notice the captions introducing the different rooms are very brief. I presume it is because of the controversy he aroused even after his death in 1949.

During the "cultural revolution" (1966-76), Liu's legacy became the target of mass denunciations. Yet, many of Liu's devilries have been proven to have been fabricated.

It's difficult for me to find out what Liu was really like during the short tour, but I find him to be rather generous - at least to his younger brother, Liu Wenhui (1894-1976), who was Sichuan's governor in the 1930s.

Liu Wencai apparently gave his brother Wenhui a mansion, just 300 meters away from his own.

The architecture is generally similar but the younger Liu appeared to be interested in Western culture, judging from the tennis court near the entrance to his house.

The Liu brothers had different destinies. While the senior Liu had a negative reputation, Wenhui became the country's forestry minister after the founding of New China in 1949. He was known to have contributed much to local communities and the country.

The Liu's territory is not just limited to the compounds of the manor. Many of the mansions lining the main thoroughfare of the town are former residences of Liu's other family members. They include three army corps commanders, nine brigadiers and 18 colonels.

These smaller houses, once heavily guarded, have become shops, teahouses and restaurants that have preserved the original flavor of the architecture.

One of the hospitable shop owners who speaks Mandarin with a Sichuan accent, beckons me as I walk past.

I order a bowl of rice noodles and a dish of boiled duck blood for about 20 yuan ($3).

While sipping the soup, I think to myself, no matter how this town has changed since the days of Liu Wencai and his brother, at least, this Sichuan delicacy tastes the same.

wangkaihao@chinadaily.com.cn