Silhouettes of Heaven Lake 1997. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Walking beyond a hotel construction, 20 years ago tourism was still in its infancy; I was alone, with no map. In physically beautiful areas I appreciate solitude. A path along the water's edge turned out not to be the main trail for I was soon scrambling up steep rock faces and along narrow ledges with drops down to the lake. There were no people on my path but looking up there were occasionally some following a higher route through the forest.

Where there were bays, there were more circular tents, with smoke rising from wood fired stoves. Under a beautiful blue sky I eventually reached the head of the lake while looking up to shimmering ice fields on Bogda Feng. It was a textbook glacial scene with a meltwater river braiding into many shallow channels before depositing gravel and sediment into the calm, blue waters.