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Epicure

Home is heavenly food - and total loss of self-control

By Xie Fang (China Daily)
Updated: 2009-01-15 07:59

Ten years ago, my friend went to France on a 12-month media exchange program. Despite all the allures of that romantic nation, she was homesick.

One day, she passed a Chinese restaurant and on seeing several mini-steamed dumplings in the window, could not hold back her tears, as if they were long-lost friends.

She related this experience when she returned to China. Everyone laughed at her but if it happened now, I'd be a little more respectful.

Sometimes you find things which remind you of where you grew up. It can be poems, flowers and food.

For me, it's mini-steamed dumplings.

Zhi Wei Guan serves the best mini-steamed dumplings in my hometown of Hangzhou, in eastern China's Zhejiang province.

The see-through dumpling skin is so thin and the minced meat stuffing so juicy it explodes in your mouth as soon as you take a bite.

When I was a child, my family often took me to the restaurant. There was always a long queue for the freshly made treats. If they sold out, there was no need to worry - new ones would be ready within 10 minutes.

Watching staff busily making the dumplings would only serve to whet my appetite.

The city's most famous dish is traditionally served in a bamboo food steamer, each holding 8-10 dumplings.

The way the waiters and waitresses bring out the steamers is spectacular. The containers are piled high, way above their heads, and the irresistible smell greets diners' noses, making their mouths water before they have even picked up their chopsticks.

The price of mini-steamed dumplings has doubled over the last decade to 10 yuan ($1.47) per steamer but it is still cheap enough to eat well.

In recent years, Zhi Wei Guan has opened many branches in the city, and its headquarters on Ren He Road is the best of all.

It is now nearly nine years since I left Hangzhou. Although I have seen countless restaurants across China serving mini-steaming dumplings, I have not once sampled them, as I fear inferior dumplings would ruin my love affair with the food.

When I go back to Hangzhou, though, it's heaven for my stomach. No more dieting, no idle thoughts of self-control, I just gorge myself until I feel thoroughly sick. Bliss!

There are other delicious local dishes you should not miss in Hangzhou, like hundun (dumplings served in soup), cairu doufu (salty vegetable boiled with tofu) and mao er duo (a kind of wheaten food with a shape like cat's ears).

Each of them should set you back no more than 20 yuan ($2.94). And don't imagine they are specially made for tourists only - you will find many local people eating them too.

And if you happen to see a woman stuffing down two steamers of mini-steamed dumplings with a huge smile on her face, say hi. It'll be me.