Restaurants across China join the Gout de France, an event that spreads French culinary traditions around the world at the start of spring. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"Talking about cuisine－French cuisine－is also talking about joie de vivre (joy of life), delicacy, optimism and pleasure－ideas that are all crucial to the image of France," says celebrity chef Alain Ducasse, who operates two restaurants in Hong Kong and plans to open in Shanghai soon.

Ducasse is a godfather of modern French cuisine, and one of the one-night program's central messages is that French cuisine is contemporary, not a relic of centuries past. Participating chefs are encouraged to blend their own culinary culture to that of France, rather than discounting it, organizers say.

Today's French cuisine, says French Ambassador to China Maurice Gourdault-Montagne, is excellent because it is healthy, innovative and responsible.

Heritage chef Fatela seconds that, adding that traditionally heavy recipes have been updated to be lighter, leaner and fresher.