Grilled anticuchos (beef heart). [Photo provided to China Daily]

Except in China, that is. There are a handful of Peruvian eateries in Shanghai and Hong Kong, but except for summer pop-ups, Peruvian food has yet to create much excitement in China's capital.

Chia has been eager to change that. He's been part of two pop-up ventures, and the second one has just migrated to Sanlitun Soho, where it takes over the Cafe Flatwhite space in the underground level from 5 pm.

After a three-week soft opening, Pachakutik cranked up the volume on Saturday night.

As a live band played and sang Peruvian music, Chia's team ran from table to table with trays of tart pisco sours and eager explanations of the food. Helping him run the place are his sister Maria, a Tsinghua MBA holder like Chia, and brother Juan Carlos, who is now earning the same degree when he's not rattling a cocktail shaker full of pisco.