John Dory, also known as St Peter's fish, is a wild-looking creature with an oval, flat body and a large, spiny head. The white flesh of the sea fish is tamer: firm and flavorful, it goes well with many ingredients and seasonings. A BBC Food report opines that "the subtle flavors of John Dory require a punchy sidekick". Chef Christopher Pitts at Shanghai's Table No 1 delivers that by roasting the fillet in caper brown butter, and serving it with apple cider-glazed king trumpet mushrooms, roasted apple puree and toasted hazelnuts. The new dish is part of the lunch set menu, which includes three courses for 188 yuan ($29) Monday through Friday.

Ground level of The Waterhouse at South Bund, 1-3 Maojiayuan Road (at Waima Road), Huangpu district, Shanghai. www.tableno1.com. 021-6080-2918.