The fish was huazi fish (Leuciscus waleckii), which is famous for its tender and fresh flavor. The dish was my favorite among the four dishes (plus a dessert) that night.

My second favorite was the fried vegetable zicaitai, literally purple vegetable stalk, which I ate for the first time. Soft but chewy, it had a special pleasant flavor tinged with a light bitterness. Its stalk is rich in vitamins and dietary fibers, and is very healthy, according to Cheng.

Next came a dish of sweet-and-sour pork ribs, which got over-fried as we talked to Cheng, and tasted a bit bitter. I did like the sugar-pickled tomatoes that had moderate sweetness and paired nicely with the sourness of the pork.

We were also served roasted duck legs with baby purple potatoes. The meat had been marinated for half a day before cooking, and the legs were tasty and tender. The potatoes were sticky and dry, a good foil against the rather salty duck leg.

The dessert was boiled sticky black rice with sesame and brown sugar, decorated with mulberries in small wooden bowls.

Cheng also served us jiaogulan tea made from Gynostemma pentaphyllum, an anti-aging herb, which is said to help cleanse the body.

Right now, Cheng says, he is just eager to get experience in cooking and ingredient sourcing as he runs the private kitchen - hoping one day to open his own restaurant.