Other Greek wineries are looking to China as well. More than half a million bottles with a retail value of $2.6 million were consumed here, most in mainland cities.

"In the Chinese market, around 40 Greek wineries are present, most of them exporting in small quantities," says Emmanuel Stantzos, minister for economic and commercial affairs at the Greek embassy in Beijing.

The biggest players include Cavino, Evangelos Tsantalis, J. Boutari & Son Wineries, Kourtaki, Malamatinas & Sons, and several wine cooperatives. Greek wines are easiest to find in the biggest supermarkets, such as Jenny Wang's 3,000-label superstore in Beijing's Shunyi district, and Greek restaurants - there are 10 in Shanghai and about half that many in Beijing.

"Greek terroirs are mostly mountainous and semi-mountainous, which is reflected in most of the country's PDO wine zones," says Stantzos. "These are the best endowed, due to the country's hot and dry climate." Other wines come from coastal zones, while the vineyards of the island of Santorini grow on a volcanic terroir, yielding very distinctive wines.

Greece recently launched a campaign to promote its native wine varieties, particularly Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, Xinomavro and Agiorghitiko ("St. George's") - the last grape a native of the Peloponnese area that makes a soft, fruity red wine that sells for less than 100 yuan ($16.40) in China.

"These indigenous varieties have recently been targeted by bad-faith trademark applications in China submitted by wine importers who tried to monopolize the market for Greek wines," says Stantzos. "Our office informed the Chinese Trademark Office of these attempts that we deem extremely detrimental to the interests of Greek wine."

We know we are enjoying the real deal as we eat and drink our way around Greece, where fresh is the operative word. The capital Athens abounds in sidewalk cafes and fine restaurants where fresh produce, fine cheeses and olive oil, and plenty of seafood come together in a healthy feast, always with a glass of a fine local wine at hand.

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