More familiar options included pork confit (served with a banana and mustard puree) and a creamy butternut squash risotto. Malay chicken with apricots is a lovely curried dish that's a tip of the hat to one of South Africa's many immigrant groups. Venison Wellington, the menu's wild-game offering, was fine in a flaky puff pastry with truffles and a red-wine jus, but for our money the simpler entrees were more appealing.

While the restaurant's contemporary cuisine is an all-around winner, it's wine that really sets Pinotage apart. That's what got Deetlefs started in business, when she and her Chinese partner seized an opportunity to promote South African wines by direct-marketing cases from a single cargo container. Her country's wines enjoy a considerable international reputation, but they are little known in China.

Changing that has been the first goal of Pinotage - named for one of South Africa's most heralded wine grapes. Besides offering a wide selection, mostly from carefully chosen boutique wineries, there are several ways customers can explore the wine list.

First, a happy-hour sampler offers eight tasting-size glasses, four red and four white, for 160 yuan ($26). Wines by the glass and bottle, meanwhile, are invitingly priced - so you can get a glass of a mid-range cabernet for little more than you'd pay for Chateau 7-Eleven at other restaurants. Bottled wine is further discounted for takeaway and for VIP club members.

FYI: The original Pinotage restaurant at Shunyi has recently moved into new digs just three blocks from its former location. The expansion at Shunyi includes a deli and sports bar.

If you go

Pinotage

Building 2, 2-105,1/F, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Beilu, Beijing

010-5785-3538

Recommended: Biltong Carpaccio, Roasted Bone Marrow, Lamb Shank, Butternut Squash Risotto

Average cost per person: 400 yuan