The prawns were another matter, however.

Only the truly brave will be rewarded with firm sweet flesh from the fat river prawns with long lanky claws. They were still twitching wildly when they reached the table, and had to be subdued with a bowl firmly clamped on top. But when it comes to fresh, nothing gets any better.

The secret is to wait until they are all "drunk" on the liquor and you know when that is when there are no more noises coming out from under the lid.

There is also a trick to peeling a prawn. Grasp it firmly by the neck and remove the head. Then, squeeze the base of the tail, and the whole prawn pops out into your mouth.

Those who fancy less primitive cuisine can enjoy the steamed and fried fishes, the most famous of which is the yellow river croaker, slightly salted for a day and then cooked in chicken broth or top stock.

This is a classic southern dish often mentioned in revolutionary author Lu Xun's books, especially in his classic tome about the fallen scholar Kong Yiji.

Hangzhou cuisine, or for that matter its surrounding relatives, place emphasis on fresh sea or river produce, and the seasonings are all lighter than strong northern preferences. You will never see a dish covered in sticky brown sauce, or heavily spiked with star anise or cumin.

The natural flavors of the ingredients are carefully nurtured on the plate, and that is why it is such an attractive culinary choice in these days of health and safety concerns.

At Qiantang Garden at least, you do not even have to worry about the source of the seafood. All you have to do is ask the boss, who have been buying from the same farmers and fishermen for the last 25 years.

If you go

Qiantang Garden Hangzhou Cuisine

59,Shuangyushu North Road, Haidian district, Beijing

010-62550308

Average cost per head: 150 to 200 yuan ($25-33)

Recommended: Braised Pork Dongpo-Style, Drunken Crabs, Pickled Whole Bamboo Shoots, Yellow Croaker in Top Stock.Soup dumplings also available.