[Photo by Mike Peters/China Daily]

You get a big portion redolent with dill and nice bits of meat, a hearty warm-up for the meal to come even after Beijing's lingering chill finally dissipates.

We also sampled a Kazak clear soup, in which a single sheet of noodle floated with tender mutton. It was a bit salty for our taste, but that inspired us to drink more of the excellent Russian beer on offer, so we were forgiving on that score.

The restaurant has a full bar, and nearby tables clinked with toasts fueled from all sorts of exotic-looking bottles.

For our entree with the pilaf, we opted for one of the fried-chicken options. This was not the battered and deep fried style of the American South. Colonel Sanders might not recognize it at all.

In this home-style dish, the chicken is sliced into bite-size pieces and sauteed with potatoes and eggs. The result is a borderline omelet, fragrant with garlic and deliciously filling.

We also sampled a tasty plate of lamb chops served with roasted potatoes and fresh onion slices. A small "spicy carrot salad" didn't have much kick, but the simple strands of marinated vegetable added crunch and color to the meal.

The restaurant's ambience is very pleasant, with comfortable booth seating and background sound that varies from our Friday night troubador singing in English to Fashion TV and Russian pop soundtracks. Servers are kitted out in charming ethnic garb and unflagging smiles, a vibe that is inevitably contagious.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn.