[Photo by Ye Jun/China Daily]

We take the local gourmands' advice and head to another famous traditional eatery, Fuchun Chashe. Next, I hit up Luyang Hotel, which was a hub for ancient scholars and celebrities. From there, I stroll to Xiao Pan Gu - the former residence of Zhou Fu, a Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) official that has been reincarnated as a luxurious hotel and club.

Yangzhou enjoyed prosperity during the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and the Republic of China (1912-49).

At its peak, it had more than 200 houses belonging to wealthy businesspeople - many of them salt dealers and court officials. About 30 of these luxurious dwellings still stand, Yangzhou tourism bureau deputy director Wang Minghong says.

Many ancient gardens have also survived the test of time, and many house top-end restaurants, clubs and hotels.

The grounds are typically laden with wooden structures, yards, ponds and rockeries arranged in designs that reflect Chinese reverence for harmony between humans and nature.

This is best seen in He Yuan. While its beautifully manicured terrain lures visitors, few realize its best-kept secret - an eatery proffering traditional Yangzhou cuisine tucked in a corner of the grounds.

Contact the writer at yejun@chinadaily.com.cn.