Casserole brioche with honey cherries and ice cream. Provided to China Daily

SHANGHAI -- The Binjiang One has wowed foodies in town with a reinvention. Its widely loved Ice Bar is still there, but the restaurant is now offering more.

Kafer by The Binjiang One, managed by Kafer, Europe's leading gourmet food brand, features contemporary German cuisine.

Tucked away from the bustling streets and high-rises of the Lujiazui area, the three-story building offers a tranquil and cozy atmosphere by the Huangpu River. Sitting on the second floor, you feel so close to the water that the river seems to be flowing beneath you.

The heritage building, constructed a century ago, is said to be where Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) docked his dragon boat before embarking on a sightseeing tour along the shore.

The restaurant's main dining area - as well as its two lodge-style dining rooms and two other themed private rooms - is decorated with antiques from Europe, giving it a warm, inviting ambiance.

I don't associate typical German cuisine with anything light, so the lunch entree surprised me. The smoked halibut, on a bed of red beet puree, topped with horseradish cream, was delightful. It looked and tasted delicate, with the beet adding a sweet and refreshing touch to the smoky halibut.

This was followed by morel foam soup, served with port wine shallot ravioli that finely balanced the foamy texture and aroma of the baked herbs.

The highlight was no doubt the braised beef tenderloin on the bone. Very nicely flavored and cooked, the hearty chunk of meat was juicy and tender at every bite. It came with side dishes of bean cassoulet, three mini baked potatoes and three types of sour cream.

The final offering - brioche casserole with honey cherries and buttermilk ice cream - proved that Kafer is a master of desserts as well.

The restaurant's popular Snow Bar, the city's only bar made of ice, is a must-see for tourists. Enjoy this chilly wonderland and a choice of 150 types of vodkas from around the world. But don't forget to stop by the coat check first and borrow a parka.