Burberry Prorsum womenswear spring/summer 2014 collections.

Burberry did, after all, make a major contribution to fashion by inventing that wardrobe staple, the raincoat - a garment made of water-resistant gabardine material. He later went to refine and strengthen the basic design so it could be used to offer warmth and waterproofing to front-line soldiers: The trench coat is named because it was, indeed, worn in the muddy trenches of World War I battlefields.

Over the years, it graduated to civilian wardrobes, too, and the elegant, all-purpose Burberry trenchcoat, with its distinctive checked lining and epaulettes, has become a ubiquitous outer garment offering style and practicality. A Burberry trench coat was worn by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's and Meryl Streep in Kramer vs Kramer.

"Thomas Burberry was a real global visionary. He understood the importance of a global brand and understood the importance of functionality as well as aesthetics," says Bailey, a friendly and down-to-earth character who is regularly described as the nicest man in the fashion industry.

"He was always thinking about moving ahead and being inventive and staying curious. I think that is what we are doing. I think he would appreciate and expect that."

But far-sighted though he was, the founder could hardly have foreseen how vital China would become for the company in the early 21st century. There are now Burberry mega-stores in Beijing, Hong Kong and Shanghai, each modeled along the lines of the flagship store in London which itself is a world away from the traditional boutique.

The various Burberry ranges now available include Burberry Prorsum, Burberry Brit, Burberry London, Burberry Children and a range of bags, accessories, perfumes, watches, spectacles and cosmetics.

The trenchcoat itself continues to be hugely popular. It's available in many more styles than when Bailey took over, and bright colors and trims have been added to the range, along with a bespoke service, allowing customers to design their own. The Art of the Trench website, inviting people from around the world to submit images of how they wear the classic coat, proved to be a hit, with some 20 million page views from users from about every country.