Lu Xiting's free-spirited craftsmanship adds that extra dimension to old treasures. Photos provided to China Daily

In comparison, Liu Xiting, another antique jewelry designer who was inspired by ancient braid work, prefers working alone.

Her efforts to create all her pieces alone seem almost heroic. "I prefer to do so because most of my decisions are impromptu during the process," she says, referring to intricate details of her work, ranging from constantly changing contours to graduating hues, and the carefully studied jumble of beaded gems.

The antique element in Liu's designs seems slightly off-kilter and does not become the focus. Instead, it seems to float upon a sea of riotous color. What results is Bohemian elegance marked by a studied disarray and asymmetrical beauty.

"I've dubbed my style 'neo-classicism' - elegant but not boring," says Lu. "It's haute boho for free spirits."

Not every designer goes for the "more is more" approach. Zhang Huiming, who makes antler-shaped lighting systems on the side, considers "understated simplicity" the essence of her antique jewelry creations.

"My designs are Chinese ink-on-paper, not Western realism," she says. "Everything comes from the heart instead of the eye."

Her design theory may sound abstract but in reality, it translates beautifully into pieces that combine and contrast the toned-down glaze of antique jade and silver with the muted tones of ebony wood. This mutual enhancement produces both serenity and sensuality, effects that Zhang intensifies with simple shapes and very little else.

"When I design, I don't consciously trouble myself with the question of whether I am following traditions or being modern," says the designer. "My works may not be visually very Chinese, but they are in fact the result of a persistent search for my own cultural identity."

According to Zhang, she chooses wood because the material is in itself a bearer and recorder of the effects of time.

"When exposed to air, wood oxidizes and darkens. It ages constantly, just like antiques," she explains.

And as for the traditional belief that a piece of jewelry should always shine, Zhang replies with a reference to the cobalt-blue feathers of the kingfisher, with a luster that remains undimmed by age and time.

Contact the writer at zhaoxu@chinadaily.com.cn.