Diving enthusiasts travel on a boat for a dip at the international diving center. [Photo/AP]

Finally, even though international travelers and moneyed Cubans enjoy the area, eagerly taking in the sights underwater, it doesn't offer the type of comforts Americans are accustomed to.

"No, there is no way they are going to be ready for them," said American diver Tony Dorland, 51, a contractor from Chicago who has visited the island numerous times to dive. Dorland said Americans "like all the bells and whistles when they travel, but it's going to be for the people that know that this is the way Europeans travel, not the way Americans travel."

The dive resort has the feel of a summer camp: spare hotel rooms (though they do have air conditioning) and a buffet that serves unimaginative fare of rice, beans and either chicken, beef or the ubiquitous pork Cuba is famous for. And since it's located at the edge of a protected reserve, there are no other visitor options for miles around.

Despite the lack of luxury, the attractions of the sea satisfy even the most demanding divers: clear water, spectacular coral heads towering 60 feet (18 meters) and an abundance of marine life.

Manuel Mons, 55, a marketing manager for a Cuban state-run tour agency, says Cuba is uniquely suited to ecotourism because of its lack of development and strong environmental laws.

"You're diving in a protected area, so there aren't areas that are under pressure from manmade activity," said Mons. "On the contrary, the policy is of conservation, so it's assumed under this conservation policy they should be that way for a long time."

But he acknowledged that if the area wants to attract and please American tourists in the future, "we need to improve our infrastructure."