A variety of tapas, small plates prepared in Mediterranean style, will be rotated seasonally by chef Fabio Falanga. [Photo provided to China Daily]

A smart organic wine list makes a new tapas bar a happening place in Beijing, Mike Peters reports.

The attractions of Fu Tapas & Wine Bar start with light.

Inside and out, Fu charms with its playful treatment of illumination, which can come from a clutch of white umbrellas overhead, a chandelier-like cascade of white feathers or a birdlike faux origami.

The interior design gives each of the three floors a distinct look to complement their different functions: the ground floor for twosomes, romantic or more businesslike; level 2 for groups; the top for private parties, with a large dining table and a cozy seating area for pre-dinner cocktails.

It's just one way that Fu is greater than the sum of its considerable parts.

Fu's claim to be China's first all-organic wine bar is an inspiring one, and more practical than one might expect. Organic and "natural" wines are a well-known trend, but the availability of such wines might be unexpected in Beijing. The wine list is extensive but carefully curated by Michael Ohlsson, the nightlife impresario behind Dada and other clubs in Beijing and Shanghai.

Surprised that he was able to build a list of several dozen wines that were organic or biodynamic, I ask Ohlsson if any of the wines were Chinese. Yes, in fact, three are from Xinjiang's Puchang winery－one of several wineries in those wide open spaces of China's west that are setting themselves apart in China with an organic approach. Puchang wines on offer here include a muscat, a cabernet sauvignon and a saperavi, the last a Georgian grape that's gaining a foothold in the region.