Japanese style: Banker is a classy, well-dressed yakitori restaurant. [Photo provided to Shanghai Star]

Sake ranges from 68 yuan for a small jug to 888 yuan for 1.8 liters of a premium Japanese brand. Most of the hard liqor is so pricy you may need a stiff drink to wash away the pain.

Luo recommends the grilled fresh eel, which is freshly killed on the morning of delivery, the New Zealand lamb chop and chicken wings.

This diner would have to add: the beef on sizzling skillet, served with onions and a very Japanese-style sauce, and grilled jack mackerel.

The live flounder fish looks identical to the latter on the menu but don’t be fooled — the mackerel is bigger and better.

While it is tempting to squeeze lemon sauce over everything, resist the temptation to do so for the ox tongue. It is shockingly good as is, which is to say, lightly salted. I’m officially taking it off my blacklist of disgusting animal body parts that shouldn’t be eaten.

Banker also offers Japanese hotpot, Hokkaido crab, sake boiled clams and a host of weird, wonderful and intriguing dishes. Some, like shark’s fin stem, are a little misleading, so proceed with caution.

Shanghai local George Dai, 36, is one of Banker’s staunchest champions. He was lucky to find a table on Tuesday lunchtime as the place is often packed to the rafters during weekdays.

"My office is around here so I come everyday for lunch," he says. "It is typical Japanese style, quick and easy, and not very expensive. I like the Japanese-style bar, and watching the chef cook while drinking with my friends. The fresh eel is my favorite."

The waiting staff barely speak English, which could deter some expats if Luo has the day off.

Nonetheless, you still feel like you are among friends here. Maybe it was no coincidence that Michael Jackson’s "You Are Not Alone" was among the Western-pop infused soundtrack on Tuesday.

IF YOU GO

Add: 591 Xiexu Road, Huangpu district, close to Liyuan Road 

Tel: 021-5302-2287