Paddy Chan, chef de cuisine at Catch restaurant.

If you look up while standing on the 70th floor lobby of Four Seasons Guangzhou in the city's new International Finance Center, you can just make out a white elbow-shaped projection near the very top of the 30-story high atrium.

The elbow is actually a cantilevered staircase that connects the 99th floor with Catch, the hotel's signature restaurant on the 100th floor.

The climb to Catch is all the more dramatic due to myriad crisscrossing glass balustrades surrounding the atrium, with a glimpse of the sky above.

On the landing, I realized that it was indeed a long way down and my fear of heights kicked in. I was much happier once I made it up the last few stairs and was comfortably seated in the Steve Leung-designed restaurant that opened in early November.

Catch is a moody, elegant establishment that wraps around the atrium like a doughnut, allowing excellent views of the ever-changing Tianhe district from virtually every angle.

A combination of private dining and open area seating makes it a convenient venue to entertain clients for the many local businesses that call GZIFC home.

Its demonstration kitchen gives guests a glimpse of the action, while floor to ceiling glass punctuated by angled columns add a theatrical flourish to the backdrop.

After being presented with a water menu that boasts seven choices, including Evian, Voss and Fiji, I meet chef de cuisine Paddy Chan.