The trip to the hills of eastern Cambodia had all the makings of a luxurious getaway: Delicious fresh fruit fed by hand, a dip in a refreshingly cold watering hole and a relaxing massage.

But I wasn't receiving these amenities. Elderly elephants were. And I was one of several tourists paying for the privilege of doting on them.

At the Mondulkiri Project, it's not the people who call the shots, but the elephants. Visitors from all over the world come here for the chance to interact with the behemoth creatures by washing them, feeding them, playing with them and, of course, getting selfies with them. One thing that doesn't happen: Riding on the animals' backs.