While Nuage may offer one of the best views of Houhai Lake, it is one of the restaurants hit hardest by the financial crisis. Expats, who once used to pack the place, have become scarce.

This explains Nuage's recent move to revive its Shandong cuisine. In fact, Nuage's Chinese name is Qing Yun Lou, the same as that of a famous Shandong-style restaurant that once stood on its foundation.

Qing Yun Lou, built in 1820, was known as one of the eight most famous eateries specializing in Shandong food in old Peking.

The owners have decided to leverage the connection to attract more Chinese customers. Its French-style Vietnamese cuisine, and wines, however, remain available.

A recent media tasting began with cold starters, such as dried shrimp, Shanghai-style porous bean curd, marinated turnip slices, marinated duck tongue and lotus root. A sauted walnut kernel and kidney bean tasted fresh, and was beautifully served in a cup of yellow bell pepper.

Some Shandong classics, such as braised sea cucumber with spring onion, a crisp dry-fried pork meatball, an intensely soft and smooth chicken and egg-white slice, and fish slices flavored with yellow rice wine, were not only tasty but also well presented.

For more options, try their aromatic and crisp roast chicken, sweet-and-sour crisp carp, and spicy baby squid soup.

The best thing about Nuage, aside from the view, is the original wood structure that gives it a historic feel, which is further accentuated by the Chinese paintings and calligraphic works hanging on the walls.

22 Qianhai Dongyan, Shichahai, Xicheng district. 6401-9581

(China Daily 03/20/2010 page12)