Some of Shanghai's best eateries are hidden away, but are well worth the hunt, Xu Junqian tracks them down.

It is said that the best way to decide whether to walk into a Chinese restaurant is not by how fancy it looks, but rather how busy it appears. This is especially true with those small, humble eateries in Shanghai hidden away down small streets or in lanes. Despite their cramped space and sometimes rude service, these places do serve some of the best local food at very reasonable prices.

1. Jiajia Tangbao (soup dumpling)

Soup dumpling, or xiaolongbao, is to Shanghainese what pizza is to New Yorkers and, therefore, there is no shortage of eateries that serve it. Despite the never-ending dispute among media and food critics over who makes the best xiaolongbao in Shanghai, Jiajia Tangbao has recently made itself the first choice for many locals with its eight varieties of the dumplings and an almost perfect taste of thin but consistent skin, piping hot rich broth, juicy minced pork filling and an appropriate hint of sweet aftertaste.

First timers should try the regular pork dumpling, while for something more impressive, the shrimp, crab or chicken dumplings can provide a subtler flavor. Be sure to arrive before noon, as the dumplings sell quickly and there is a limited number sold everyday.

Address: 90 Huanghe Road (near People's Square)

Tel: 021-6327-6878

Transportation: Metro line 1, 2, 8

2. Wanshouzhai (wonton)

Wonton with xiaolongbao is like coke with hamburger, serving as a perfect match for an ideal traditional breakfast for most locals. But interestingly, the place that has the best xiaolongbao usually provides only so-so wontons - and vice versa. This tiny, but always-crowded, eatery will delight you with its authentic recipe of "Three Delicacies Wonton" (sanxian wonton), which contains pork, shrimp and fish. With its sleek and shinny skin made of special flour, tender meat as filling, and steaming fresh soup, these pleasantly chewy wontons will make you understand why there are so many people, young and old, willing to be crammed in this small space.

Address: 123 Shanyin Road

Transportation: Metro line 3, 8

3. Xiaoyang Shengjian

(fried soup dumplings)

A must-try snack food place on the once must-go snack food street in Shanghai (shut down for some bigger real estate project years ago) is now in a cleaner mall. The restaurant's fried dumplings outshine all its peers with their large size, chewy and crispy skin, delicious broth and well seasoned meatball fillings. It's the cousin of xiaolongbao, only less delicate, and more satisfactory for carnivores. Watch the locals for a lesson on how to eat them, unless you want to get squirted with broth.

Address: 2F, Hui Pu Huang Building, 269 Wujiang Road

Tel: 021-6136-1391

Transportation: Metro line 2

4. A Niang Noodles

This tiny noodle shop has only eight tables, but is very clean and tidy. The most popular offering is a bowl of brown, fragrant, steaming noodles with seasoned boned fish on top. For an additional 2 yuan, you can also get a dish of salted vegetables with meat or spicy pork with potatoes, which makes a perfect mixture with the noodle soup.

Address: 36 Sinan Road

Transportation: Metro Line 1

5. Jing'an Xiaoting

(malatang, small hot pot)

This conventional street snack originated in Chongqing and, therefore, has a similar look and taste to hot pot, only much cheaper and more personalized, as you can pick all you want and have it cooked individually. The raw materials offered vary greatly, from meatballs to chicken fillet, prawns, vegetables and so on. Each is strung on a bamboo stick and costs no more than 5 yuan. The traditional Chinese medicine that is added to the pot also adds a unique flavor to the soup, making it richer in taste.

Address: 2F, Hui Pu Huang Building, 269 Wujiang Road

Tel: 021-6136-1399

Transportation: Metro line 2

6. Ling Long Kitchen

(typical Shanghai home-cooking)

Anyone who has been to this tiny restaurant (only four tables) will tell you how rude the owner is, but they will also tell you that the food is so awesome there that you will soon forget the unpleasantness of the boss and indulge in a delightful meal. The red braised fish with tofu and red braised pork (you only need to choose one of the two as they have a similar taste) have a divine taste. And the morning glory vegetables covered in rosy tofu sauce will make the meal a wholesome and delightful experience.

Address: 57 Shaanxi Road S

Tel: 021-5403-9970

Transportation: Metro line 1, 10

7. Xiao Hei Hao Qing (grilled food)

If you are looking for grilled seafood mopped up with creamy garlic sauce, Xiao Hei Hao Qing is definitely a top choice. The cooks here can turn up the heat and grill slippery and fresh oysters. With a bottle of ice-cold beer and a bowl of seafood congee, you will have a sweltering, but wonderful, time here.

Address: 794 Dingxi Road

Tel: 021-6116-9209

Transportation: Bus No 71, 57

8. Ju Dian (small lobsters)

People come to Ju Dian just for one thing: xiaolongxia, or small lobsters. These little crustaceans tempt your taste buds with their bright red color and rich fennel smell right after they arrive at your table. Despite the time-consuming procedure of flicking off the shell and head, the delicious meat that awaits inside will make it more than worth the effort.

Address: 689 Anlong Road

Tel: 021-6291-3677

Transportation: Metro line 2, Bus No 71