Ode to the Old Epicure was written in Su's late years, while he was demoted to what is now Hainan province, China's southernmost region. Throughout his life, Su experienced repeated cycles of promotion and demotion. Yet, wherever he was sent, he adapted, served the local people with dedication, and took pleasure in food. When lamb was scarce, he devised new ways of cooking lamb spine. His name graces arguably China's most iconic pork dish, Dongpo Pork (red-braised pork belly).
Kao says the show aims to showcase the richness and diversity of Chinese culinary culture.
"Over the long course of history, across various regions, with diverse ingredients and cooking methods, Chinese culinary culture has evolved into an incredible 'culinary universe' — a treasure trove shaped by different eras, geographies, produce, and ways of life," he explains.
"Each dish embodies a piece of living wisdom. We hope more people will discover this unique aspect of Chinese culture and develop a taste for its culinary traditions."
According to the show's producer, He Shifei, production was grounded in intensive reading of ancient literature spanning the Warring States Period (475-221 BC) to the Qing Dynasty, as well as consultations with cultural experts. Given that many ancient dishes are recorded only briefly, the team turned to similar recipes from the same period or later as practical references.
Beyond restoring historical dishes, the show aims to offer glimpses into the food and daily lives of earlier times.
In light of this, the team, bringing a youthful perspective, uncovered stories such as the popularity of takeout meals among Song Dynasty (960-1279) emperors, the high status of professional female chefs during that era, and the ancient practice of holding cloves in the mouth to freshen breath.
Chen, who leads the production team from his documentary studio DOClabs Beijing, says they have long been drawn to tracing the historical evolution of food.
"Food is both our subject and our lens for understanding the world and history. It can be hot or cold, just as people experience joy and sorrow," he says. "Most traditional dishes have changed significantly over time. Searching for the foods of the past and how they were made is a means to taste our way back to our origins. Time may not soothe everything, but it teaches us how to relate to food."
Kao acknowledges that while there's hardly any way to verify whether they've truly re-created the flavors their predecessors enjoyed, the show strives as faithfully as possible to restore the methods of handling and cooking ingredients from specific historical periods — even if the results are not always tasty or visually appealing.
The team carefully considers whether seasonings like sugar, chili and soy sauce were available when a dish originated, while adapting certain recipes to modern cooking habits and ingredient accessibility. "Where historical records are ambiguous, those are precisely the areas where we can exercise our creativity," he says.
Born in the 1960s, Kao studied philosophy at Taiwan's Fu Jen Catholic University and at Stanford University as an exchange graduate student. He previously taught at his alma mater in Taiwan, worked in media, publishing, and catering, and served as a consultant for Chen's culinary series.
Since 2006, he has traveled across the Chinese mainland, writing a 12-volume series on regional culture and history, as well as several books on food culture. He gained wider popularity with his short video series reviewing restaurants and promoting culinary culture, which began in late 2022.
Kao credits his philosophy training for instilling in him a lasting curiosity. "When I encounter a flavor, I naturally wonder why it has become this interesting thing in itself — why it's so enticing, why it's consumed this way, or even whether it's edible at all."
He finds it fascinating to consider, for example, why the very first person decided to eat something spicy, and how. Cooking methods, he notes, haven't changed much over time, but modern tools allow people to do more with less effort.
One question the show explores is why some flavors fade while others endure. Kao believes basic tastes — sour, sweet, salty and spicy, though spiciness is technically a pain sensation — will never disappear, even if their sources vary. A good flavor is often layered and complex; innovation often means experimenting with new arrangements of basic flavors while controlling their sequence.
"Taste is highly personal, and the appreciation for cuisine is entirely subjective," Kao says. "It's important to be open-minded and willing to try new things. Always aim to eat the right food at the right time and in the right place, using the right method and appropriate utensils. And most importantly, share the meal with the right people."
He recalls a visit to Anji county in Zhejiang province, where he and his friends picked spring bamboo shoots at dawn and cooked them immediately. After peeling, they boiled the shoots and intended to pair them with soy sauce. "Then I found they actually tasted great without seasoning. Delicacies from nature are a true gift," he adds.
