Heritage in one's backyard

The revival of interest in Hong Kong's history and heritage began gaining currency during the COVID-19 pandemic, when the restrictions enforced by the local government practically ruled out overseas travel. Left without much choice, compulsive holidayers began exploring what lay in their own backyard. Soon the ever-familiar cha chaan teng staples became sought-after food items, and cheongsam-wearing selfies were filling up social media pages.

As Hing Chao, chairman of the Intangible Cultural Heritage Earthpulse Society which hosts the annual Intangible Cultural Heritage Mart, says, "Sixty years ago, no one would have considered Hong Kong-style milk tea an intangible cultural heritage." Now, thanks to the pandemic, Hong Kong residents' awareness of local culture is "way better" than what it was even "in the early 2000s".

Yeung offers a reason for the apparent shift in Hong Kong people's response to local heritage: "The alienation and dislocation of the past five years have been traumatic for Hong Kong," he says, referring to the incidents of citywide unrest in 2019, the pandemic and droves of people leaving the city. He contends that since for most Hong Kong people it was their first time going through such enormous upheavals, "it's natural for them to gravitate toward what defines the best of the city".