Gu Chao, a Shanghai chef and the culinary education director at Shanghai Industrial and Commercial Polytechnic, is among those who can attest to the quality of Chongming crabs.

"Chongming crabs used to be notoriously small. But this has changed. A friend recently opened a restaurant offering these crabs, and they are delicious," he says.

"Because the water in Chongming is slightly saltier compared to inland lakes, the flesh is more savory and therefore has more umami," he adds.

Huang has built a "crab museum" on his farm to highlight the tradition of indulging in this delicacy during autumn and winter months, and showcase the breeding process to visitors.

"When people understand the culture, they will eat the crab with more interest and find it tastier," Huang says. "I don't wish for people to pay a small fortune and not be able to appreciate what they are eating."