In our northern Chinese household, cucumbers are a summer staple. After a winter of pickles, the knee-jerk reaction is to have as much fresh green vegetables as we can. Absence indeed makes the heart and palate grow fonder.

There are many ways to eat cucumber raw.

The simplest is to have chilled cucumbers, whole or cut into lengths. The crunch of cold cucumbers makes for an excellent starter. Sometimes, a saucer of sweet bean paste or hoisin sauce is added to the table for a dip.

The family favorite has to be "smashed cucumbers".

Nothing can be simpler. Whole cucumbers are topped and tailed, then cut into two. The cucumbers are lined up on the chopping board and lightly flattened with a smack of the cleaver so they split at the seams.

The dressing can be either elaborate or simple, depending on time, and palate. A few cloves of garlic, a little black vinegar, a scattering of salt and sugar makes a tasty topping.

Or, a spicy version with crushed chili and garlic works just as well.