When the locals aren't reclining in libraries and design labs, you can find them looking after their own mainframes. About 99% of Finns visit the spa once a week, both to socialise and relax. Start with the architecturally stunning L?yly, which features both traditional smoke and wood-burning public saunas, with room for 20 people, as well as smaller private saunas for those who prefer their own space. L?yly's huge front terrace lets visitors succumb to the stupendous views across the Baltic Sea and even take the dramatic staircase down to it. The space also has a bar that serves the Kyr? Distillery's Napue gin, winner of the gin and tonic category at the 2018 International Wine & Spirit Competition. And there's the Allas Sea Pool, a marine spa and oasis of urban culture in the heart of the city, just a stone's throw from Market Square.

Hungry? Finland is famed for its bread and pastries, so start at Teemu & Markus for exquisite patisserie and entirely moreish rustic breads, Eromanga for meat pies, Kannisto for apple pies and Café Esplanad for huge cinnamon buns. There's also a wide selection at the indoor market halls and delis such as Anton & Anton. For chocolate, at which Finns also excel, the one-stop shop is Goodio, made in the Kallio district and distinguished by their vibrantly colourful wrappers.