“This is not merely a marketing gimmick. As a restaurant brand, we wish to extend our hospitality to the Beijing drifters,” says Gao Huisheng, who is responsible for the brand’s outlets in North China.

Tan Yu is well-?known for offering tantalizing grilled fish in different flavors. "Seeking the best flavor is our mission," says Gao. It probably suffices to say that the name of the restaurant, Tan Yu, literally means “exploring fish” in Chinese.

Gao says that Tan Yu has crafted 15 flavors, and uses five different fish varieties, so altogether diners have 75 possible choices when ordering a grilled fish dish.

He adds that, after much market research, Tan Yu has honed the preferences of palates among different regions in China — Chongqing diners prefer the grilled fish in the distinctive spicy bean curd flavor; Guangdong locals like soy bean paste; while Shanghai customers tend to like the fish with radish.

Overall, however, the Tan Yu signature flavor, which is grilled fish with green pepper, remains the most popular, he says.