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I went inside the main hall, the Utse, at the center of which was a pole symbolizing the center of the universe. Monks chanted, and others banged drums. From the main assembly hall steps led up to its most important chapel enclosing a four-meter high statue of Sakyamuni. Passing monks blowing wind instruments from an open window, I emerged onto a balcony where I could look over many buildings and beyond.

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