Dong Zhenxiang has traveled widely to explore the diverse influences that inspire him.[Photo provided to China Daily]

"I'm a Chinese chef, so my philosophy is to always focus on Chinese food," he told the Beijinger way back in 2010. "But I draw upon other places and peoples, ingredients and techniques to make my food great." Earlier this year, Dong was named a "food and beverage culture ambassador" by the Beijing Food and Beverage Industry Association, a move to promote the capital's culinary industry.

His recent visits to Gansu province and to Italy, where he spent a few weeks on a culinary pilgrimage last summer, were bookends for a production he calls From Dunhuang to Sicily, a tribute to the Silk Road's food legacy.

These influences run through the menu like a fugue. Sticky rice meets Iberian ham. Fish belly with saffron sauce and rape flowers. Fresh oysters served in two styles are smoothly followed by wonton stuffed with shepherd's purse in Huadiao yellow wine.

His roots also get a moment in the spotlight, with traditional Beijing Zhajiang noodles with soybean-meat paste.

With the arrival of spring, the chef says, "we engage the local farmers in happy conversations and indulge in the pleasures of the farmers meals, by which our bodies, hearts and minds are rejuvenated in this season."

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn